Not sure I've seen a published list, but I pulled the following off the Yahoo /2 forum, posted by a guy who has done an incredible restoration of an R69S. He doesn't guarantee their correctness:- oil drain plug: 15 ft-lbs- cylinder heads: 25 ft-lbs- gearbox cover nuts: 10 ft-lbs- generator bolt: 14 ft-lbs- magneto bolt: 14 ft-lbs- drive shaft coupling nut: 90 ft-lbs- flywheel cap screw: 150 ft-lbs- Drive shaft drain/fill 10 ft-lbs (???)- Axle spindle nuts: 25 ft-lbs- General torque guidelines- M3 10 in-lbs- M4 20 in-lbs- M5 40 in-lbs- M6 (SW10) 70 in-lbs- M8 (SW13) 14 ft-lbs- M10 (SW15) 29 ft-lbs- M12 (SW19) 49 ft-lbs- M14 79 ft-lbsI have the multi-language workshop manual, and here's what if lists. The value of mkp is kilopound meters. This website and its content are Copyright © 2003-2019 Vintage BMW Motorcycle Owners, Inc. All rights reserved.Please read — when you choose to participate here you are bound by them.Vintage BMW Motorcycle Owners is a non-profit association and is not affiliated with BMW AG or BMW of North America. Use or depiction of the BMW logo or trademark throughout this web site is for illustrative and editorial purposes only, and to the benefit of the trademark owner, with no intention of infringement of the trademark.For any questions or comments about the web site, the club forum or the club itself,.The Vintage BMW Motorcycle Owners Club Heaps Lavish Thanks on for their support of the club!
Post E46 M3 torque spec's and I'll add them here.EngineOil drain plug: 18 ft-lbsOil filter housing cap bolt: 24 ft-lbsBanjo bolt (side of valve cover): 18 ft-lbs (25 Nm)Spark Plugs: 16 ft-lbs (22 Nm)Cam Bolts: 10.3 ft-lbs (14 Nm )Chain Tensioner bolt: 32mm 51.6 ft-lb (70nm)Cylinder head bolts: E14 22.1 ft-lb (30nm)/90 degrees/90 degrees (see explanation in thread)Engine mounts: 37 ft-lbs (49 Nm)VANOS filter bolt: 20 ft-lbsOil pan bolts - 8.8 grade - 89 in-lbs (10 Nm)10.9 grade - 106 in-lbs (12 Nm)Tensioner: 18 ft. (24 Nm)Idler Pulley: 33 ft.
Quote:Sorry, no turbro thread here.But, it's not because the E46 M3 has no torque that it cannot be torqued right, right?So I made this: updatedI will add it to the torque thread. Tried to verify as many as possible, but of course I may have made mistakes, so please tell me if you see any!I made this because we took a friend's car apart in order to repair the RACP, and we wanted to torque everything back to factory specs, which got me started.I will print this and always leave it in the garage.
Very easy to check tightening torques.Any feedback on how to make it better appreciated! I was just gonna ask if you had it in foot lbs!This is amazing for lack of better terms man.!!!I'm literally in the middle of a full engine rebuild and you have no idea how much you just helped me out!!Sent from my SM-N910F using TapatalkNo problem. I hope I did not make any mistakes. I tried to verify all of the torques as much as possible. Always check if they make senseTo convert to Ft Lbs, I can do that of course, but will need some time. It's late here now, and I need to get some sleep before a big day of work tomorrow.In the mean time:Nm x 0,77 = Ft LbsNm x 8,3 = Inch Lbs.
Need to buy parts for this project?BMW E60 models utilize fasteners that can only be tightened once. When these fasteners are removed or loosened, they are to be immediately discarded and replaced with new parts. At times, a torque specification for a specific fastener is not provided. In that case, BMW has provided the torque specification depending on bolt size and type. See the table below for standard tightening torques.
These torques do not apply to torque-to-yield fasteners. There are different surface colors depending on fastener type. Fasteners may be colored yellow (ZN) or silver (ZNS). The torque values specified in this table apply to noted fastener types only.
The following specifications are not applicable when using a different surface or lubricant on the thread, or if the height of the nut differs. Figure 1Self-locking fasteners have a built in locking component and once removed the locking feature is degraded and most times ruined. The green arrow in this photo points to the self-locking component on the nut. Once tightened, this component is degraded and is no longer secure. You can also damage a bolt if you try to reuse a self-locking fastener, one more very good reason not to try to.
Torque to yield bolts are designed to stretch only once when tightened. Therefore, once installed and tightened, they do not return to their previous length like a standard bolt would. Once removed, you cannot trust them to provide a proper fastening torque or a secure clamping force.
Torque to yield bolts are known to break if reused. In our tech articles, these bolts will be noted as to be discarded when removed, but always check when ordering parts to be sure we didn't miss one somewhere. Aluminum fasteners are used all over the engine of BMW E60 models and have to be replaced each time they are removed. These bolts can break and you can end up with a corrosion problem if reused, creating a major problem if not noticed immediately. Figure 3Aluminum fasteners are sold in sets depending on what repair you are performing. It is a good idea when ordering parts for your vehicle to ask if there is a bolt kit related to your repair. The set of fasteners shown in this photo are required when replacing the water pump, sold as a set.
Remember to always make a complete part list and check with our parts specialists to be sure you have everything you need. There is no worse feeling than tearing into a weekend project and not being able to finish the procedure due to not having everything you need. This site was designed and produced solely by Pelican Parts. Pelican Parts is not associated with Porsche Cars North America in any manner, except for a mutual appreciation and love of the cars. All pictures and references to the Porsche name, and the car names and shapes are for restoration reference only, and do not imply any association with Porsche. Pelican Parts is not responsible for any typographical errors contained within the site. Information and technical articles within this website are for reference only.
Consult authorized factory manuals when performing repair procedures. By entering this site, you agree to hold Pelican Parts free from any liability arising out of the use of any information contained within.
What you are supposed to know about your ZF6HP26, 6HP19, 6HP28 and similar ford Transmissions.It applies to all BMW, Jaguar, Bentley, Rolls Royce, Maserati, Audi and others with ZF 6HP26, 6HP19, 6HP28In this post i will be explaining why you have transmission issues like:-harsh shift 2-1-not able to shift into park when hot-weak torque feeling-gear speed ratio faults-other faultsAll highlighted problems you can experience even on low miles cars less than 70-80k, it depends on at what speeds your car mostly runs. On the highway this tranny will easily last 200-300kmls. AND EVERYTHING IS RELATED TO VALVE BODY PRESSURE LOSS DUE TO SOLENOIDS OR ACTUAL VALVE BODY SEALING GASKETS LEAKING INSIDE, BUT BETTER DO BOTH. DRIVING WITH LEAKING VALVE BODY WILL EVENTUALLY WEAR OUT ACTUAL TRANSMISSION HARDWARE.BEST ADVICE FOR YOU: SINCE 99% issues with this trannies are related to valve body fluid pressure loss, I strongly recommend new (re manufactured) valve body from ZF (expensive 1600$), (you can find some companies offer this rebuild, but they charge almost new VB price, or rebuild it yourself with NEW SOLENOIDS PACK (300-400$) and SONNAX zip kit (150$). If after you rebuilt or replaced valve body and R ESET ADAPTATIONS USING BMW SOFTWARE INPA OR ISTA IS A MUST, OR YOU WON'T SEE ANY DIFFERENCE AFTER REBUILT, BECAUSE TCM KNOWS VALVE BODY PRESSURE VALUES AND THEY MUST BE RESET. IF AFTER REBUILT, it's not shifting well, it means YOU WAITED TOO LONG WITH VALVE BODY REBUILT AND DESTROYED transmission hardware (bushings or actual clutches failed) and you need to rebuild it, but like i said main problem STARTS at valve body and then if not fixed in time you get worn out transmission.
All those jolts, bumps or harsh shifts cause premature wear and tear on your tranny. Rule of the thumb is not to drive it if it jerks,or shifts wrong.replacing just solenoids without rebuilding valve body, where accumulators/pistons always go bad after 60-70k, will not get you perfect results, but might improve shifting quality. Remember-cheap people usually pay twice (no offense).So you hate the way tranny shifts and dealer and other shops didn’t find any faults and told youit is what it is and this is how it is intended to work! Well it is total lie they are trying to get rid of you with.In fact ZF 6HP26 6hp19, 6hp28 is a very good transmission, powerful, bullet proof pretty much if serviced in time and proper fluid pressure maintained!
This tranny is still considered one of the best and has carbon clutches vs cheap paper ones you can find on Japanese cars. But this tranny has very serious and veryimportant weak spots you have to take care of:-First thing first check tranny temperatures. ↓. Rob UhlerI have a 6hp26 from a 2003 Jaguar XKR I bought with 102K miles and not running.
I went to change the fluid in it to your recommended ZF Life guard since I have it out of the car. Inside I found the Shift Position Sensor part of the Transmission Control Module was cracked. I took it out and off the valve body.Where can I get another one?What about a Ford one and having it reprogrammed?Is it possible that when I took the shift cable off I damaged it? I was having trouble with the getting it off.Thanks!
↓.Pingback:.Pingback:. Bobby LuceroHello, I have a 2009 750Li and there is certain times when I drive the car cold and put it into park, the gear selector light will toggle between P and N. You can hear something clicking just below the gear selector as well.
I will let the vehicle roll when putting it into park and it engages. It does not pop out of Park when this happens. I have never noticed this happen after the vehicle warms up. Do I have a bad solenoid/park cylinder in the mechatronics unit, or is it a gear selector issue? Can I get away with a solenoid kit if it is in the transmission? Thanks alot!!
Rebuilt Bmw Torque Converter
↓.Hi, I recently had revs jumping up and down slightly whilst driving more so on an incline, had the oil and filter and sump changed, still did the same, was told buy a transmission place it was the torque converter, so spoke to a local garage who said they could do the job, had the torque converter sent away to be reconditioned, refit back and new oil again replaced with ZF oil they said it took just over 9 litres, but since having car back I have a shuddering once I go over 25-30 mph and it gets worse up to 60-70. The gear changes on the car feel very smooth, I have had the rubber coupling on the drive shaft changed and had the wheels balance but no difference.
↓. AlexThis is a great article and spot on.
For those questioning whether a rebuilt valve body is necessary, if absolutely is if you are experiencing the symptoms described. I have a 2009 E64 650 and had all symptoms described with multiple tranny faults and safe mode experiences. Had the valve body rebuilt at 75k miles. Works like new; back to the screamer I knew it as. Only difference is our shop built it from scratch out of brass instead of aluminum. Documented the entire process and shared with ZF. Been one year since rebuild, it wasn’t cheap but totally worth it.
↓. MarkHiThis is a great write up, thank you!I have a 2004 E65 745Li and it drives fine when cold. But in traffic it is not a smooth gear engage into 1st (as it should not be noticeable) it is a bit of a gentle jolt. Once the car is up to full temperature and I put it in park, it wont go back to drive or reverse, it gives an error on the dash.
If I restart then it is usually fine but might roll forward first and then really jolt hard into gear. Checked transmission fluid level and it is 100% fine. Indi says that it needs a new tranny as fault codes say clutch is slipping. Does this sound right?Thank you! ↓.
Stevethis article seems to be the best single source of information regarding common issues with the 6hp26. Wondering if I could get the thoughts of someone more knowledgeable than me. Sitting in the driveway, in Park the gear shifter in the cabin will click occasionally (as if trying to shift into gear) in Drive (with the brake on) the car will attempt to shift just about every 2 seconds (like a clock). It will click, the “D” indicator in the instrument cluster will blink and the RPMs will rise slightly and fall. It will do this twice every 2 seconds until I put it back into park. Keep in mind once you start driving, it is smooth as can be, shifts and drives flawlessly. ↓.
ApurvaHi,I have a 2009 BMW 750i (F01). I am having harsh shifting and surging especially when going up hill in the morning (cold).
The aeon had weak spark to begin with. My Polaris with a deadbattery sat outside for 2 years uncovered and still starts at most 4 kick. I’m assuming don’t. But if u seen the inside of flywheel idk if a coating of crap will stop spark. Yamaha sr 125 workshop manual pdf. Ohhand the Polaris has manual choke.
I am also having periodic lockups where the transmission won’t shift to the next higher gear. Specific example, today after accelerating from a red light, once I got to around 35-40mph, the transmission would not shift to the next gear. The engine went up to 5500 rpm and about 50mph before I let my foot off the gas. But even then the car would not shift up until the speed went back down to around 40mph and then the car surged foward and I could accelerate again. Your thoughts on what is going are appreciated. Dealer has not been able to completely diagnose.
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Just replaced Guibo and things got better (2-1 shift and clunk noises have gone away), but this inconsistent shifting and lockup still is happening. ↓. Andrew ShitakhaI have an E60 2004 BMW. It has clocked 70K mls.
I recently got an error message” Transmission Fault. ↓. Bill S.Hi,I have an 06 Range Rover. The trans shifts great all the time. Only issue is that once it goes into closed loop, the RPM’s will surge between 30mph and 55mph under light or moderate throttle.
Most notable when lightly excellerting or climbing a hill. It’s been re flashed. It surges in rhythm and does not chatter. I thought it was an engine surge at first but it must be the converter locking and unlocking. Had it at the dealer for two weeks and they were dealing with their hot line service. And they couldn’t find the cause. In the end they suggested to replace the converter and the valve body and see what happens.
But to me the converter doesn’t seem to be bad. Shifting manually it is fine other than a weird second gear surge or a type of hesitation when Revving it out.
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Hopefully just a valve body rebuild?Thanks in advance. ↓. Tom6hp28 tranny in bmw 330d with 200k miles. Shuddering under throttle in 5th gear like its slipping a bit and revs rise/fall. Can get a knock and bump if manually shifting 4th to 5th under throttle.
Ratio monitoring code 4th to 5th if forced to cause the fault. Slight 2/1 downshift clunk and slight delayed into reverse and clunk sometimes. New/rebuild transmission time?? One place suggested I send them valve body for testing, just worried a clutch is already gone and would be wasting money? ↓. Mel CI have a 03 745li with 185k. Transmission was replaced at 115k by dealer, but now, it is overheating while in Drive with the brake on (red light or traffic).
It isn’t the engine since I’ve checked the temps with INPA, and the tranny can reach 115 degrees C. It cools down when the car it’s moving or in Park. I get no error codes except when it reaches that temp, it shifts at high RPMs (3500-4500). I also do get the hard 2-1 downshift clunk most of the time. No other clunk while moving in Drive or Reverse.
I am guessing it can be the Torque Converter, since I’ve replaced the fluid, and filter, and VB seals. The VB looks perfect with no discoloration on the solenoids. Or do I need a new transmission? I greatly appreciate your input. ↓. Jill MulliganI had a problem with my 2009 bmw 328ix transmission when it suddenly would not go into reverse. I made the mistake of taking it to a local AAMCO since the nearest BMW shop is 100 miles away.
They told me I needed a valve body rebuild. They pulled the valve body, installed new manual valve assembly, sonnax zip kit, new filter, pan gasket and used dextron 6 fluid. The car drove rough between 1st and second with clunking and also when coming down hill to decellerate, it would jerk shifting down.
The mechanics said the car would have to “relearn” my driving and it would eventually adapt. Now I am reading about the computer needing programing after this type of repair.
I told the mechanic I was not satisfied with the way my car is shifting and he said he was aware of a relearning but needed to study up on it. Is there a software he can use that will fix this, or is it only available at a BMW shop?
↓. Tom BI have a 2011 335d which I have had dyno tuned with an increase of 120hp 160lbs of tq to the wheels. The tranny is now the weak point of the car.
You can really feel how slow the shifts are and how slow the TC locks up. This info is stored in the TCU not the ECU correct? What can be done to modify the TCU for quicker shifts and fast TC lockups etc?
I’m very knowledgeable with all of the tools and software needed just not on the diesel version of this car. Any help is greatly appreciated!
↓. Mo RahmanHi.Firstly i wanted to say great write up, very resourceful information.I have a problem with my 2009 335d zf gearbox, vehicle has been remapped about 370bhp/730nm of torque. In normal D mode the gearbox is perfectly fine, in DS and MANUAL mode on full throttle changing gears from No. 4 – 5 just before reaching or after even 4000 rpm, the gear judders or slips, po, i drive will show transmission fault, visit work shop, power and gear ratio is limited 2500rpm.
When restarting engine the fault goes away, drives perfectly normal, this has happend a couple of times now, when driving 300 or 400 miles, while car is hot. ↓. cjHello cj from AustraliaFirstly congrats on a great Blog and thank you on behalf of all for continuously helping us out.I have just purchased a 2004 e60 530iDone 70k kmsTrans – AutomaticWas serviced by BMW till 40k kms and then local mechanic afterProblemThe car when accelerated mostly uphill and even more so when it has more ppl sitting, the car when shifting from 4 to 5.
The engine revs out like there was a neutral gear in between and then engages into 5th gear. A minute later the auto trans error comes up. It doesn’t happen all the time.The mechanic scanned and found 4F51 5 gear monitoring.I don’t think the car transmission was ever serviced. What is your diagnosis and what are the list of things you suggest I do considering the car may have never had a transmission service.Where can I get parts in Melbourne and any mechanics you re commend? ↓. adam joneshi i have a bmw 530 d paddle shift 2007between 3rd and 4th gear when selecting 4th one it engages gear the revs drop as it just drops in gear no clutch.iv also noticed on the same 3rd to 4th most of the time the gear will go in to 4th around 18-1900 rpm and driving same style it will change about 2400rpm and this is only between 3rd to 4th all other gears are ok. The oil and sump was replaced by bmw in 2012 t about 60k the car now has 80k.would a software update sort this out?the problem only started after gong sideways around a round about for a bit;-(is this normal gearbox behavier?
Or am i being parannoyedany advice would be great thanks. ↓. Jason SmithHi, I have a 04 525i M/Sport.Mechanics i have taken this to have not been able to specificlly tell what the problem is.I have 2 fault codes that appear after scanning.5088 Selector Swich L1-L45089 They dont knowWhen driving at low speed and i take my foot off the thottle, or stationary at traffic lights, The transmission will drop out of drive. The ” D ” in the dash cluster will disappear and is blank though all other symbols on the dash are fine.I have all other operations P R N and they work fine.It has sometimes come back on its own, or the failsafe will engage. After restarting, failsafe is cleared and car operates as normal. It might be the next day or 2 before it happens again.If i keep revs slightly up when staionary or using any throttle while driving, it wont drop outI would greatly appreciate any thoughts you had on this.Thank YouJason. ↓.
CiprianniHi there,Thanks for sharing all this information with us. Extremely helpful. I too have an issue with my tranny, car is e65 730d, ZF 6hp26.Its tuned to approx 350hp and 800nm.Car goes into failsafe when hard accelerating and changing from 5th to 6th and only happens around 160-170 km/h. Or when hard accelerating and shifting from 6th to 5th at around the same speed. Would it be because of high torque?
Oil was changed approx 5000km ago.Trouble codes:51404F4C4F51Any help is appreciatedRegards. ↓.
George AdairHi, couldn’t find where to register myself to post but hope you see this, I have BMW 545i 2004 Automatic and have fault messages appearing relating to “Transmission Fault, Possible reduction in acceleration, Have the problem checked by nearest BMW dealer” Also in traffic at around 35-40mph the gears jerk back and forth as if it cant make its mind up which gear and lastly when accelerating with pedal hard down gears change up to 3rd the hold for approx. 1.5 secs then an almighty thump and gears carry on changing! Had valve body and mechatronics replaced, still got these faults, A ZF technician told me could be DRUM BUSH! Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
↓. Dave L2006 Range Rover Sport.transmission shifted ok other than the occasional 2-1 blip.adaptive strategy was errased for transmission and now it cant be driven in D mode.
1-2 shift bangs hard 2-3 the same and will not hit 4th, tries but reverts back to third. Manual mode works for all gears except 3-4, sometimes it will shift up ok and others it tries but then as in D reverts back to 3rd.Dealer says software is ok and recomends trans replacement. Not sure why adaptive strategy errase would cause all these issues also slight delay into engaging reverse when selected.thoughts? ↓. kersHello, I found this website by searching om Zf 6hp 19. Very nice to have all this information.
I drive a BMW 530i 2005, 200.000 km. I bought this car 5 years ago.
At 140.000 I saw some oil leak on the tranny. I went to Germany (live in Holland) to ZF, the changed the seal and changed also the oil.At 150.000 km from 5 to 6 not so smooth. I went to ZF service in the Netherlands, They reset the adaptive values. Since then the overall shifst are not very smooth anymore. Not a real issue but. Zf Netherlands told me that this was acceptable. The offered a complete revision of the tranny.
At 170.000 km I went to a tranny workplace nearby, they replaced the solenoids. It improved a little but I am still not satisfied. They told me, the shifting is acceptable for a car with this kilometers. Now at 200.000 km the shifting became a bit less smoother, When I drive with a caravan it works fine. Another issue came up since a few months. After slowing down from 80 km/h to 30 km/h, it takes some seconds to pick up the Tranny, or engine.
Like is hesitate to chose the right gear. In manual mode no hesitation. So I think the tranny is causing it. No fault codes are present. ↓.
YousefMy car is 2004 BMW 530i with 268000 KM on it. I got the following message today.“Transmission fault Transmission failsafe activated. Possible reduction is acceleration/ drive moderately! Have the problem checked by the nearest BMW service”and this is the detected code: 5088 sensors, transmission switch L1-L4during receiving the message I did feel that the gear shifting were slightly hard. After seeing the message I powered down the car for 5 minutes and restarted it. The message did not come again and gear shifting was smooth as normal.This message appear two time or three per week.Please note that I’ve not replaced the transmission filter or oilAny suggestion will be helpful.
↓. Tore SkogheimHi!My 530da 2007 (lci) with ga6hp26z gearbox feels strange sometimes.Like when i stop in a intersection and start again it feels like it is slipping a bit ( in 1 gear), like high rpm and little power. Suddenly it`s working again.
From slipping to normal seems kind of hard.Range on my car is 196 000km, no proof of oilchange ever. Gearshift feels fine and no faultsI am afraid it is cluch problems.What do you think?Is it the same square mechatronic gasket in all this gearboxes? ↓.Hello from Seville/Spain, just found the link to publish my question.thank You for sharing Your knowledge in the Web. I am preparing my Jaguar XKE with aV12 engine to perform as a daily driver.One of my thoughts was to change the old BW12-automatic to a modern automatic transmission with Overdrive.As i know the 6HP26/28`s have an integrated ECU programmed to the specific features of the coupled engine.I would like to know what kind of sensor connections needs the 6HP from the engine (f.E. Throttle position sensor or kickdown switch).I am aware, that there is no possibility to connect to an ODB-system, because in 1971 that does not exist.My ides was to search for a transmission from a Jaguar XK8 due to the similar engine characeristic.Any opinion on this?Best regards from SevilleHelge Kassel.